Below are explanations and links to readily available feed and care products that we buy via Chewy or Amazon that you may want to consider. Your bunny will come with some starter nursery feed.
This is a habitat we love EXCEPT for the water bottle that comes with the habitat. Please either use a crock or the water bottle we recommend.
This habitat allows your bunny to see you easily and stand up to greet you when you are coming towards them!
Holland Lops and Lionheads need to be able to take at least two hops and to be able to stand up in their bunny home. Our bunnies are used to being In larger cages with the addition of plenty of exercise.
We like the other habitat better because we feel it’s more social. However, the link below is an option for we like for the drawers that pull out from both levels for easier cleaning . You can remove the ramp, the bunnies are able to jump between levels. Our bunnies are indoor bunnies and we use this type of hutch indoors. However, this hutch could be used temporarily outdoors if put in a safe and temperature friendly place.
You will want to get a jumbo sized litter box to make cleaning easier. We recommend this one which is inexpensive and is the only one we’ve found that keeps bunnies’ little feet clean. We especially like this litter box for Lionheads because things can get stuck in theit long fur. We use kiln dried pine pellets for litter. (Don’t use clay based kitty litter as it is dangerous for bunnies’ health. Pine shavings can contain oils that irritate bunnies’ eyes and potentially their digestive systems.) Bunnies will choose the corner that they want their litter box in and will notify you by making a mess in that corner. Don’t try to fight it, just move the litter box to that corner and all will be well! Sometimes it’s best to start with the litter box right under where the feeder is hung because bunnies actually like to eat and poop at the same time. If your bunny has an accident, sop it up and put it in the litter box and they will get the idea. If you are letting your bunny hop around the house, enlarge their area slowly as they can get confused as to where their litter box is at first! See our FAQ’s for a link to an article on litter training.
On the topic of digestive tracts, bunnies have two kinds of droppings. 1) hard, dry pellets which should be uniform in size and which are primarily fiber, 2) Cecotropes which look like smaller, wet mulberries. Cecotropes are a special food for bunny which only bunny can make. They contain necessary, helpful gut bacteria and they are produced in a portion of the rabbit's digestive tract called the cecum. Bunnies must eat cecotropes to remain healthy and this is one of the reasons babies need momma until they are 8 weeks old. This is an informat article on bunny poop which is indicative of bunny health!
We use Feline Pine litter which is kiln dried sawdust made into pellets. It doesn’t contain oils (like pine shavings) that can be irritating to bunnies. Since rabbit droppings are one of the best fertilizers available, we use natural litter that we can dump in our garden to save on mulching and fertilizer costs. If you don’t have a garden, or if you prefer to stick with your existing landscape maintenance plan, there are other safe litter products for bunnies including Carefresh, Yesterday's News, aspen shavings (no pine or cedar shavings!), newspaper, and plain old hay. Newspaper and bulk hay are the most inexpensive choice, but they aren't as absorbent as other litters so must be changed frequently.
If using Feline Pine, scatter barely enough to cover the bottom of the litter box because it swells up 10X after coming in contact with water/urine. You don’t want it to swell out of the top of the litter box grate. There should be plenty of room for droppings to fall down into the litter box.
Note that bunny urine can vary in color from yellow to bright orange/dark red. Don’t panic if you see orange or red urine. Discoloration can be unpredictable and two bunnies fed identical diets can have very different colored urine. You can test if blood is present by dripping hydrogen peroxide on it, if it's blood it foams A LOT. But blood in the urine is more often seen as specks, not as uniformly red urine. If your bunny shows signs of straining, not peeing or not having uniform droppings (aside from cecotropes) you should consult a vet.
Bunnies need unlimited access to timothy hay (not alfalfa hay) and water. A handful of hay the size of your bunny both in the morning and before bed is best. Bunnies‘ digestive tracts can get woolbind without enough fiber (hay), especially Lionheads with their long fur, so it should ALWAYS be available. Before buying a bunny, please ensure you are not allergic to hay. An allergist can test you for rabbit as well as hay allergies. Or if you are into home testing, buy some hay, rub it on the inside of your wrist and wave it in front of your face. (We recommend the allergist option.) It is not fair to take an animal into your home that you cannot keep because you are allergic. You would not do this with a dog or a cat and you should put equal research into welcoming a bunny or any animal into your family. Allergy shots are always an option (we know because we get them!)
We like a combined hay and feed bin like the one in the link below because it keeps the hay off the bottom of the cage which can be confusing for bunnies who are litter box trained. It also provides one place for both rabbit pellets and hay. Timothy hay should always be made available but rabbit food should be limited. This should be hung over the litter box so your bunny can eat and go potty at the same time since that’s what they like to do and it helps with litter training.
Bunnies must always have access to clean water because they need it to maintain their body temperature. Compared to a cat or dog, bunnies drink significantly more water per pound of body weight. For example, 1 lb bunny can drink as much as a 5 pound dog. A 4 pound bunny can drink 3 cups of water or more per day. If your water bottle is leaking then the water obviously goes much faster.
Our bunnies are used to drinking from a water bottle. We have tried ceramic bowls instead of water bottles but they tend to get bunny hair floating on the top and generally look unsanitary even when cleaned every day. If you prefer a ceramic bowl it’s really important to choose a low bowl heavy enough so that the rabbit cannot push it around or tip it over. They like to put their front paws on the rim when they are drinking so if the bowl can tip over easily it probably will.
Our bunnies are used to apple cider vinegar in their water which we HIGHLY recommend be continued after you take them home. We add 1/2 tsp ACV per cup of water which we add with a syringe since it’s easier than a measuring spoon. Apple cider vinegar has many benefits for the domestic bunny. It contains a potent combination of vitamins as well as being full of minerals, such as potassium, copper, iron, magnesium, phosphorous and many more. Plus bunnies really like the taste of ACV! We also save the ACV glass bottles and use them to replace the plastic bottles that come with the water feeder (Dishwasher safe). Here are some additional recognized benefits:
-ACV helps reduce the ammonia smell of rabbit urine.
-Prevents urinary tract problems like bladder sludge (from excess calcium), reducing infections because the organisms can not live in acidic urine.
-Keeps the body pH regulated, clearing up any skin infections or weepy eyes.
-Increases the nutrient absorption capabilities of the G.I. tract as well as helping the whole digestive process.
-Makes bunnies unattractive to fleas and mites by making the bunny ‘smell‘ off, making it a great repellent.
-Keeps fur softer and shinier.
-If bringing your bunnies to a show or transporting them, ACV water will taste the same as the water from home no matter what tap you use.
- Apple cider vinegar is available in your local market. We recommend the raw unfiltered kind that says ‘with the Mother’.
This makes it SO much easier to add apple cider vinegar to the water bottle. Just use the syringe to suck up the ACV and depress the plunger to deposit the right amount in the water bottle. You will thank yourself for getting this - it’s a ‘bunny hack’. Amazon link included in the button but it’s less expensive at your local pet store.
When it comes to bunny food, the biggest mistake new bunny owners make is over feeding. Holland Lops and Lionheads need unlimited access to hay but only 1/8-1/4 of a cup of pellets daily. Overweight bunnies are unhealthy bunnies so resist the urge to over feed. when selecting pellets, avoid any with colorful shapes added in with the regular pellets as those are treats - kind of like feeding your children sugary cereal for breakfast. They love it but it’s not healthy for them. We feed Oxbow Essentials for Young Rabbits (or for adults as applicable.) You will not want to buy a huge bag because rabbit food does lose nutrients if it is sitting around too long. You will transition to adult food at 6 months. To transition to a new food, add 1 tablespoon of the old food into the new food for a week.
It’s tempting to feed your new baby bunny fresh fruits and vegetable but please don’t do that. Moving to a new home is already a big change for them and stress can impacts their digestive health. You will receive a baggy of pellets that your bunny is used to. Mix a tablespoon of that feed into your choice of pellets until it is gone. After a couple months (when they are 5-6 months old), you can slowly introduce new foods.
New fresh foods need to be introduced slowly so your bunny’s gut bacteria can adapt to processing the new food. It's a good idea to introduce one type of food at a time, then if your bunny is sensitive to one type it's easier to identify and avoid in the future.
If you find your bunny’s droppings change from their normal solid round pellets, this is a sign that you may be going too fast or that a particular food doesn't agree with them. Stopping the fresh foods for a few days and ensuring plenty of Timothy Hay is available should return them to normal.
Leafy greens, except lettuce, are best for bunnies. Dandelion leaves, carrot tops, kale, spinach, spring greens, raspberry/blackberry leaves and herbs such as parsley and basil are nice options but be sure to not feed from your yard if it has been treated with pesticide. For young bunnies’ first introduction to greens it's best to avoid fruits, though these can be introduced as training treats later. (2 tsp per day).
When picking up your bunny to take home it’s ok to use a 12” deep box but in the longer term you may want a carrier for transport. We prefer the hard case carriers because you can seatbelt them in and your bunny is better protected. Also we really recommend the ones that open from the top because it’s SO much easier to get your bunny in and out! We’ve tried a few but this one is the best in our estimation because the top opens and closes so easily with one hand.
You need a safe place to interact and bond with your bunny and also to give them daily exercise. We like these puppy pens which you can sit inside with your bunny for bonding time.
I usually buy the 24 inch height but if I have a really good hopper I buy a 30 inch or 36 inch. For me the 24 inch is easiest to climb over, you have to be a little more careful with the higher ones so you don’t trip getting in. They do sell some that have a gate or a door but honestly it’s too much of a pain to open and everybody just climbs over anyway so it’s not worth the extra money IMO.
Here’s a useful link on bonding with your bunny.
After your bunny has settled into their new home, there are some additional items below you may want to consider.
My daughter loves to take our bunnies for a hop/walk with the harness and our bunnies love it too! Note that the leash is stretchy, unlike a dog leash. This is so the bunnies don’t get an injured spine by trying to hop forward reaching the end of the leash and being snapped backwards. So it’s a little different feel than a dog leash since you can’t really direct the rabbit easily. Also, since other people might be walking their dogs you still need to be very careful where you are going and to what or to whom you are exposing your bunny.
You may be tempted to buy a large plastic ‘bunny ball‘ similar to what you would put a gerbil or rodent in. Some bunnies have been known to get broken spines from the large plastic ball so we do not advise it. Remember, bunnies like to hop, not run on all fours.
You should trim your bunnies’ nails monthly. This is important because the more often you trim, the shorter the vein in the nail will stay. When the nails grow too long the vein also grows and then you *can’t* keep the nails as short and you are more at risk from scratching. Examine the claw to locate the vein inside the nail. This vein is called the quick, and you should avoid cutting it. Cutting the quick will cause your pet to experience some pain, and he/she will bleed. Look for the pink part in the nail and cut below it. Some nails are quite dark, so you will need a small flashlight to see it. If you do accidentally trim the nails too short, use flour or styptic powder to stop the bleeding. There are plenty of YouTube videos on trimming bunny nails Like this one: https://youtu.be/rvausPZOJ5A
Bunnies have open rooted teeth. That means their teeth grow all the time just like our fingernails. Their teeth naturally wear down to the proper length by the act of eating hay and pellets. Some bunnies like a lava rock grinding stone toy to chew on for fun. You can also make your own chew toys - just use a cardboard box, unfinished wood block, toilet paper or paper towel roll, unfinished wicker etc.
Lionheads need more regular combing whereas Holland Lops usually only need it once or twice a year during molting season. We recommend using a comb that does NOT have sharp tones that will hurt your bunny’s sensitive skin. We like the one linked below.
Sometimes your bunny will spend all day hiding in the closed off section of the habitat. This can cause problems during litter training if they are also using that section as a bathroom. If you are running into this issue, close off the ‘hideaway’ section in the habitat but give them a little hideaway like this one. With this approach, they still think they are hiding which makes them feel secure but at the same time they are easier to get to and more likely to use their litter box.