For the process to place a deposit on a bunny, see the top of our Bunnies for Sale page.
Bunnies can be litter trained but it will take a bit of time and work. Start by putting the litter box under their feeder with hay stacked up on one side of the litter box (inside the box). Bunnies like to eat and go potty at the same time. If they pee outside of the litter box dab it up with a paper towel and put part of the wet paper towel in the litter box so they can smell where to go. Clean the floor where they peed outside the box with white vinegar and water so they won’t continue to go there. Always start with a small area for the bunny to roam in and get comfortable. Gradually increase to a larger area. Anytime a bunny is in a new place they will mark it for a period of time so you can expect them to get better as time goes on. Pick up the hard, dry poo pellets and place them in the litter box so they get the idea. For most bunnies, litter training will only be complete once the bunny is spayed/neutered and the hormones urging territorial behavior are no longer in play. This article may be helpful.
Many dwarf breeds do not have the word ‘dwarf’ in the name of the breed although some do which can be confusing. The Lionheads and Holland Lops we carry are both dwarf breeds.
We do not carry Netherland Dwarf bunnies as Holland Lops and Lionheads are known for their excellent temperaments.
Bunnies require daily care and litter box cleaning. They need to continue to be held daily. They do NOT respond well to being dragged out of a hutch. Open the door and let your bunny explore in a pen attached to their habitat! They need an exercise area and daily exercise and love. They respond well to ‘treat training’. When it‘s time for your bunny to go into their habitat, shake the food bag and feed them inside the habitat. They will learn what the sound means and look forward to being fed. A 5 year old child will not be able to be a primary caretaker and would need your support. We see many good bonds form between bunnies and children aged 10-12 who have done their homework and really want to care for a bunny friend.
Our bunnies usually have 2-3 babies but litters range from 0-6. Gestation is 31 days and we often don’t know if the pregnancy ‘took’ until day 31.
Bunnies should be spayed or neutered at 6 months old. This will help them complete their litter training since they will no longer have the hormones causing them to mark their territory. Males who are not neutered may spray like male cats. Females who are unspayed may become territorial.
With regard to allergies, a reaction to other animals (cats, dogs, horses, guinea pigs )does not necessarily indicate a reaction to rabbits. They are distinct animal danders. On the other hand, it’s not uncommon for an allergic individual to be allergic to several “furry” or “hairy” animals.
It’s relatively simple to be allergy tested by skin or blood to determine if you are allergic and I would highly recommend being tested before bringing a baby animal into your home 😊
As babies (less than 4 months) there’s really no gender based personality difference between males and females. Around 5-6 months when they should be spayed/neutered they may exhibit more hormonal behavior. Females may become territorial and males may spray urine like a male cat and engage in mounting behavior. This behavior generally goes away with a timely spay/neuter. Sometimes we read on the internet that some people‘s experience is that males are friendlier but we haven’t found that to be generally true with our bunnies. Just like humans, bunnies each have their own unique personality!
We usually sell bunnies who are too young for a spay/neuter. Bunnies should be spayed/neutered by 6 months and you should start talking to your vet about it by 4 months. Sometimes we help rehome a surrendered bunny and then they may already be spayed/neutered.
Bunny bonding is personality dependent. This article may helpful.
We certainly hear often from our bunny families that their dog or cat gets along fine with their bunny. Animals can, however, be unpredictable and we believe that even trusted animals should be closely monitored when interacting with one another.
You should not let a bunny nibble lightly at your skin or clothing. Although they groom each other in this manner and may be exhibiting affection, it is a bad habit to encourage with humans. Remember, they do not want to hurt you but if you encourage this behavior the light nibble could turn into a nip.
If they nibble, let out a high pitched squeal so they learn that it hurts you (even if it doesn’t). They don’t want to hurt you. NEVER hit or shake a bunny as they do not respond well to physical punishment and will not trust you. Bunnies are not terribly forgiving.
Lastly, just in case this is tempting to do, do not feed from your hand or they will always be looking for food in your hand. They have a blind spot right in front of their face because their eyes are more to the side. Therefore it is hard for them to see directly in front of their nose so if being fed by hand they will nibble to find food.
Mammals have rods and cones in the nerves of their eyes which detect different colors and light. Rabbits have more rods than cones so their vision is good even under various light conditions such as at dawn or twilight. This supports their crepuscular activity. In addition, because they are a prey animal, their peripheral vision has developed to allow them to see a panoramic view. However, within that range there is an overlap which creates a blindspot directly in front of the rabbit. When you approach your bunny keep this in mind and approach slowly and a bit from the side. Don’t just stick your hand quickly, directly in front of your bunny and expect them to eat out of your hand. They could get very startled and engage in a behavior that will also startle you!